(Translation of a selection of anecdotes taken from our French “anecdotes” articles #1, #2 and #3.)
1 – Our first Peruvian friend
Lima Airport, January 11 – we’re waiting for our connecting flight to Arequipa… which is soon announced with a two hour delay! That’s a problem, because there’s supposed to be a driver waiting for us in Arequipa (sent by our hotel) and we should give him a heads up – however, we don’t have any access to the Internet anymore [Lima Aiport offers you only 30 minutes of free WiFi, which we’ve already used up…].
There’s a local lady seated in front of us with her child, and she seems nice. I summon all the Spanish I know, and ask her if she would mind sending a text message on our behalf to our taxi driver, telling him about the delay. She gladly accepts! She also tells us that she will send another message to the same number as soon as we’re able to board and have a more precise ETA. We thank her warmy!
Once we’ve landed in Arequipa, we meet our benefactress again as we’re waiting alongside the baggage belt. We talk some more: where are we from? how come we know (some) Spanish? The lady (we still don’t know her name) offers to contact the driver yet again, telling him that we’ve arrived, and she decides to stay with us until we’ve effectively found him.
So that’s how we do it! A few minutes later, after dismissing a dozen other taxi drivers with the help of our new friend, we’re finally seated in the car of the driver who came to get us.
We get an idea: we know nothing of the nice Peruvian lady who was so helpful and kind to us – but the driver, since she texted him, is bound to have at least her number! Again, I summon all the (rusty) Spanish I know, and soon we’re in possession of the número de teléfono we need.
Once we get to our hotel (Mandala Rooms & Services), we send a gratitude message to our new friend, telling her as well that we will gladly receive any tip or recommandation she might have regarding our stay in Arequipa. This is like opening Pandora’s box: the next morning, close to a hundred messages are waiting for us in our WhatsApp inbox, including pictures, tips and explanations about the city we’re about to discover! And we finally know her name, too: Pilar.
¡Muchas gracias a usted, Pilar!
2 – Ripped off at the Mercado San Camilo
Following the recommendation of Pilar, our first day in Arequipa includes a visit to the covered market of San Camilo – where we encounter a magnificent combination of sounds, smells and colors. As we walk through the aisles, our attention is soon drawn to the numerous, very colorful stands of the fruit section.
An middle-aged vendedora starts talking to us. She seems quite nice. She hands us some pieces of fruit to try, teaches us the names of the fruits we don’t know: tumbo, tuna, pepino, pacay, pitahaya, lima… Because we quite like what we taste, and also because we want to show some gratitude, we select a few pieces to take away, and ask for the price. It will be 32 soles (close to 10$). We panic: that’s definitely way too much, we’re obviously tourists and she knows it! On the other hand, she took the time to talk to us, she gave us a few pieces for free… What do we do? Well okay then, let’s cough it up!
Nevertheless, we have a bad feeling about the transaction… Obviously, we’ve been ripped off! A few stands further, we see some mangoes advertised at 3 soles per kilo – okay, so we’ve been charged the price of 10 kilos of fruit (22 lb), for just a dozen pieces at the most. Oops!
Our hunch is definitely confirmed at the end of the day, when we return to the market to buy some vegetables. This time, the lady we talk to is honest, and she charges us what seems to be the local price: for two carrots, a squash, an onion and three tomatoes… we pay 4 soles (1,2$) in total! Since we purchased an equivalent quantity of fruit earlier, we figure that the first lady overcharged us by a factor of 8!
Of course, it’s part of the experience. Let’s say we contributed to her next holidays budget… It’s true that nobody forced me to tell her right off the bat, with a lot of enthusiasm that “this is our very first day in Peru”! That made us fair game, I guess… 🙂
3 – “Under the Sea”
In Arequipa, we observed something that we thought was quite funny. In this city, it’s not the ice cream truck that announces itself with a song – it’s the garbage truck. And it’s not any song, either: it’s “Under the Sea”, from The Little Mermaid! 🙂
4 – Buying a new phone in Peru
Fourth and last day in Arequipa. On the Plaza de Armas, I pull out my phone to shoot some footage of a “preacher” riling up a small crowd of distracted listeners, making big gestures and talking about God. When I feel I got what I needed, I try to put my phone back in my bag, but it slips through my fingers and hits the floor hard! The screen is broken, the touchpad is damaged – I can’t even unlock the device anymore. Well, I will need to buy a new one…
Without a moment’s hesitation, we walk into the closest Movistar shop. At that precise moment, an epic experience starts!
First, a lady at some counter helps me to select a model of my choice. We try our best to communicate in Spanish, and luckily we manage to do so quite well. I choose a device to my taste, and the lady draws up a contract (I will have a prepaid Movistar SIM card – and hence a Peruvian phone number, yeah). I am then sent to a second counter, where I have to pay, and then to a third one, where I have to stand in line and wait for my new device. Clem stayed at the first counter, and she’s waiting for me.
After a few minutes of standing in line, the lady from counter #1 calls me back. “Actually, this is taking too long, and since I need to attend to a certain number of clients per hour, I’ll just restart the whole process with you from the top – okay?” She rips apart the contract that I have just signed, and indeed starts the whole procedure over. Really?!?!
The paperwork is soon ready. It’s obviously identical to the previous one… I sign everything once again, put my fingerprint on half a dozen pages. On one of the pages, I apparently don’t put my fingerprint exactly where I was supposed to – the lady at the counter and her colleague politely laugh at me.
I then return to counter #3, where I was standing in line previously. It’s finally my turn. Am I going to get my new phone now? Well, not so fast, something’s wrong with my email address, apparently. The lady from counter #3 calls on lady #1, who runs up to her. After she’s ran back and forth twice, everything seems settled at last: I get a new cellphone, in which lady #3 has already installed my Movistar SIM card. But we’re not done… I now need to got to a fourth place, to “Gabriel”, por la configuracion.
I walk up to a guy who’s standing a few steps further. Bingo, he’s Gabriel apparently! I hand him my new phone, he switches it on, hits “OK” or “skip” a few times, selects Spanish as the interface language (without asking my opinion on that…). When the phone is finally on, he uninstalls three pre-installed gaming apps (inadvertently launching one of them first, of course). I see traces of his greasy fingers accumulating on the brand new screen. “There you go, it’s all set!” Well that’s great, thank you Gabriel!
I go back to Clem and to counter #1. The lady reprinted one of the pages of the contract and asks me to sign it again, and to put my fingerprint down… at the right spot this time! I proceed.
Okay, we should be done now. One last question: can I buy a protective case for my phone here? “Yes of course, there’s a small shop right behind you. The salesperson is on a short break, but she’ll be back at 4 pm…” Clem and I look at each other, we look at the time, we look at each other again. “Well, hum, actually, it’s 4.30 already!” “Oh… Well then she won’t be gone much longer!”‘
The three of us start laughing. At least, lady #1 will have been super nice to us from start to end! We prefer not to wait for the aforementioned salesperson to be back, because we’ve been at Movistar‘s for an hour and a half already. It’s time to get some fresh air! 😉
What a farce! What a weird experience! 🙂
5 – 140 miles? 7-hour bus ride!
On Tuesday January 15, we leave Arequipa, taking the bus to Cabanaconde (and to the Colca Canyon). The sole real stop on the way is Chivay, which is the last “big” town before the final destination. Clem gets off the bus to go to the bathroom and buy some snacks. I stay on the bus, looking after our seats and belongings.
A few minutes go by. Quite a few people get back on the bus. The driver closes the door, he starts maneuvering. Uh? Are we about to leave… or is he just going to park a bit further away? I feel some adrenaline rushing through my body – Clem is nowhere to be seen! The bus goes backwards, and then forwards. Some other passengers have noticed my agitation and tell the driver there seems to be somebody missing. Luckily, I’m seated at the front of the bus and I can easily talk to the driver, too: “¡Espere! Falta mi novia. Está en el baño.“
The driver stops the bus. His copilot asks me to confirm what I just said. “She’s in the bathroom? What’s her name?” At that exact moment, Clem finally appears on the parking lot again! She, too, is surprised to see that the bus has moved. She runs to the vehicle, regains her seat right next to me. Phew! We’re lucky I wasn’t sleeping during the stop…
***
Besides this specific anecdote, the whole bus ride from Arequipa to Cabanaconde deserves to be addressed. The total distance between these two places is approximately 140 miles. How long did that take? 7 hours, thank you very much! Which means we’ve been driving at an average speed of 20 mph…
Let’s mention a few highlights: the sweltering heat and assorted smells (no A/C, obviously), the little curtain hiding the driver and blocking any view of the road ahead, the movie “The Mummy” dubbed in Spanish (with suboptimal sound quality), and the following endless Peruvian music videos [featuring a lot of Pan flute! 🙂 ]… All very picturesque!
The “safety video” made us laugh, too. Each rule appears to be a littlel less relevant than the last:
- “Heed the speed – it should never exceed 90 km/h [56 mph].” –> The only moment we had a visual of the speedometer (which was otherwise hidden, along the driver, by a curtain), we noticed that the pointer had been dead for a while…
- “All passengers must remain seated at all times.” –> As we got closer to Cabanaconde, more and more locals hitched an informal ride on our bus, eventually occupying the whole central aisle – obviously standing.
- “If the ride takes longer than 5 hours, the driver must be replaced.” –> Replaced by whom? The copilot was 16 at the most – and for 7 whole hours, there was no sign of any other driver.
One last detail: the small village of Pinchollo, right before Cabanaconde. The bus takes the only road going through the village (other than the “main road”), but it is forced to stop half-way because a huge truck filled with bricks is blocking the whole street. A few locals are unloading it, by hand – three bricks at a time… After a few seconds’ hesitation, our driver understands he has no choice but to exit the village the same way he entered. Pretty impressive driving skills, actually: at least it can be said that our driver knew how to drive in reverse, as he rolled his bus backwards at least 300 yards, through a street barely wider than his vehicle!
6 – The Cashless Canyon experience
Besides meeting a scorpion twice [a story you can read about in French here and here], we had another quite uncomfortable experience while trekking the Colca Canyon… Indeed, we had omitted one very important fact: nowhere in the Canyon is it possible to pay anything by card (let alone to find a bank or ATM)! And even though some places accept VISA in the town of Cabanaconde, the closest ATM is in Chivay, 2 hours away…
Hence, we descended into the Canyon with a limited cash reserve – a problem we only became aware of when we woke up on the second day of our trek, at the Llahuar Lodge. When the young receptionist asked us to pay, and explained we couldn’t pay by car, we understood that our plastic was worthless down there, and we would have to survive on the little bit of cash we had with us.
Check-out from the Lodge. We count our bills: 220 soles (S/220, about 66$) – the check is… S/173! Darn, we overspent… The Lodge wasn’t the cheapest option in Llahuar, and we bought way overpriced bottles of water, had dinner, a cocktail, breakfast… We start negotiating with the receptionist, telling her about our problem. [This is actually when and how we forcedly discovered the pleasures of bargaining! 🙂 ] We manage to get the check down to S/165. Well, that’s at least that! We leave with S/55 in our pocket, well aware that this will need to buy us at least one more dinner, a bed for the night, and a lot more water!
On the road to San Juan de Chuccho, we slowly start to run out of agua… We make a short stop in the tiny village of Belén, where some ferocious bargaining manages to get us two small bottles for S/5. A couple of hours later, in Coshñirhua, we’re forced to buy water yet again. The shopkeeper – to whom we explain our situation – won’t go any lower than S/7 for a 2,5 liter bottle [approx. ⅔ of a gallon]. (In Llahuar, the same bottle costed S/10, while in Arequipa we used to buy it for 3 or 4.) The lady explains to us that water is very expensive in the Canyon, because bottles need to be carried down by mules.. Hmm, we understand… We’ve now got S/43 (<13$) left.
We finally reach San Juan de Chuccho and head towards the Posada Gloria – a small inn that has been recommended to us. The Gloria that we meet is indeed very nice, and welcomes us warmly. We immediately explain to her the pickle we managed to work ourselves into… (Luckily, our Spanish skills are sufficient to make our case.) “So, for 43 soles at the most, we would like to get a bed for two, and as much water as possible…” “Hum, but what are you going to eat, then?” “Well, tomorrow we need to walk all the way back up to Cabanaconde, and water is more important than food…” The lady frowns, indicating that she is thinking. “Listen, this is how it’s going to be. My cheapest double room is S/10 per person. I can sell you my big bottles of water for S/8 a piece – normally, I sell them at S/15! As for food, I will offer you some soup tonight.”
We thank her profusely. We calculate that this means we will be able to eat a bit, sleep and leave with 5 liters of water [~1,3 gallons]. Phew! “I only have two conditions. First, please don’t mention our special arrangement to the other tourists staying here. That would hurt my business! Secondly, tell as many fellow travelers as you can to come to the Posada Gloria – if they’re ever in the Canyon.” We smile: “Of course, no problem!” Final check at Gloria’s: S/36.
So, we have S/7 (2,1$) in our pocket when we take the road again on the next and final day. When we finally arrive in Cabanaconde (after an exhausting 7 hour walk, including a 1,000 m elevation gain spread over 8 km), we enter the first shop we encounter and ask for “a big bottle of water and as many bananas as we can get for 7 soles”! We made it!
Afterwards, we bought some more water (and coke) in a hostel where VISA was accepted, and we also managed to “withdraw” some money at our hotel – paying a few soles by card and getting the equivalent back in cash. Despite the commission the hotel treated itself to, that operation allowed us to go get dinner and to pay for the bus to Chivay the next day – up to the next step in our adventure… and to the nearest ATM!
7 – Differentiated rates at La Choza de Oscar
Second and last night in Puno. After a day rich in emotions (see our article about our Islas Uros misadventure, in English), we decide to go eat at a pollería – a restaurant where the main food served is roast chicken. We saw a few of those close to our hotel, but we still ask the receptionist for a recommendation. He sends us off to the Choza de Oscar. We don’t know the place – but we chose to trust him.
We enter the premises (there’s a lot of locals eating here, which is bound to be a good sign!), and we immediately spot a sign advertising “1/4 roast chicken for 13.5 soles”. That looks great – we’ll go for that!
A specific waiter (called in reinforcement by his colleagues – probably because he’s the only one who knows some English, and we definitely look like tourists) seats us at a table and gives us a menu. This is our first hint that something is up: around us, nobody else is holding a menu…
We have a look and spot the “1/4 roast chicken” that we’re interested in. It’s 25 soles! Well they’ve got some nerve… When the waiter gets back to us, we point to the ad sign and tell him (in Spanish, to let him know we’re not just “stupid” tourists) that this is what we would like to get – 1/4 roast chicken for 13.5 soles.
The waiter looks a bit embarrassed. He shows us the menu again: “Hum, well, but, see, this is where you should look actually…” We stay firm and confident. “Well on the menu, the same 1/4 chicken is more expensive. It’s 25 soles for the exact same dish – the only difference is the price. We know we’re tourists, but this ain’t gonna fly! We would like to order the dish that is advertised on your sign, at that price.” The waiter leaves. Clem looks at me with big eyes: “Well aren’t you all plucky and fearless all of a sudden!” It’s true that after this afternoon’s rip-off, I’m well decided not to get fooled again…
The waiter comes back with a flyer. “So, this is what you want, correct?” We look at his piece of paper. Now, isn’t he the funny guy?! On his flyer, we see yet the same 1/4 chicken – this time advertised at a price of 20 soles. “No, this is not what we want. We will take the 1/4 chicken at 13.5 soles, as advertised right there.” The waiter nods. Okay, we made it – he’ll get us what we want. Phew!
Never before had we fought so hard for a piece of chicken… 🙂
8 – The El Kantu crook
It’s the end of the day in Cusco, and we just came back from our trip to the Sacred Valley. We’re looking for a small restaurant to have dinner – by now, we’ve gotten used to spotting the S/10 meals (starter + main dish + beverage for 3$) that are offered in many places. We start walking in the direction of the Mordisco, where we’ve eaten a few times already, but on the way, we stop at the El Kantu – which we do not know, but which has a sign advertising the kind of meal we’re looking for.
We sit down. The waitress/manager brings us a menu, but we’re quick to indicate that we’ll have the S/10 meal, as advertised by the door. We can see at the lady’s face that she’s disappointed – no doubt she would have liked some tourists like us to order a much more expensive dish à la carte. Nevertheless, she proceeds, writes down our choice and – a little later – brings us our food.
“Now, why do you guys assume this good old lady had such venal intentions? Do you have any tangible proof of her thirst for money going beyond her vocation of service?”
Why, yes we do! While we’re eating at our main dish, a second couple of tourists enters the small restaurant (speakers of German, from what we’re able to grasp). The lady welcomes them in, shows them to their table and, as they’re getting seated… grabs the “S/10 meal” ad sign behind their backs and flips it against the wall – making it no longer visible! We are flabbergasted by such brazen dishonesty!
Should we say something? Should we tell the German-speaking tourists? We hesitate, but we eventually chicken out… We tell ourselves that this is probably none of our business, and that we shouldn’t get involved any more. However, now that we’ve seen the kind of person she is, we quickly grab a menu and check the prices of the extra beverages we ordered. That was a good call: when we get the check, we immediately see that the prices do not match, and we make her review her calculation before paying anything. What a crook!
Luckily, even though this type of attitude towards tourists is not entirely unheard of in Peru (see previous anecdote, as well as this article), we’ve been treated more ethically in the vast majority of places we’ve been. This is however the kind of story that encourages us to stay alert when interacting with locals, in order to avoid being duped…
9 – The “transbordo” extra charge
Fourth day of excursions in the Cusco area. We start our two-day trip to the Machu Picchu, which will unfold in the following way:
- Day 1: minivan transportation from Cusco to Hidroelectrica, lunch at Hidroelectrica, walk from Hidroelectrica to Aguas Calientes, dinner in Aguas Calientes, double-room overnight stay in Aguas Calientes;
- Day 2: breakfast in Aguas Calientes, access to the Machu Picchu site at 7 am, 2-hour guided tour and free visit, walk down to Hidroelectrica, minivan transportation back to Cusco.
For the whole two-day trip, our agency – Kana Travel – charged us 95$ per person. The average price we found for such a trip was 100$, so that seemed fair. No reason to worry – the same agency handled our single-day trips from the last three days (Sacred Valley, Moray & Maras, Palccoyo), without any incidents so far. However, our negotiation skills will soon be put to the proof again…
After several hours on the road in our minivan going from Cusco to Hidroelectrica, the vehicle stops and the driver explains to us that we will need to step out and change cars. Indeed, the drivable bridge crossing the river has been entirely destroyed by the bad weather (it has been under repair for a month, apparently), and for safety reasons, it is recommended to go across the water on foot (using a temporary wooden bridge) and to take another minivan on the other side. “This way, we will have a car on this side of the river, ready to take us back to Cusco tomorrow. By the way, certain minivans have attempted to cross the water recently, and several got stuck right away or broke down a little later.” It’s true that the river does not look very minivan-friendly… while the regular bridge is definitely useless! Have a look:
(Please note that our driver speaks only Spanish, so I am in charge of translating the explanations into English, for the sake of two Czech and one Polish fellow travelers… 🙂 )
“For this transbordo, there will be a 10 soles extra charge per person.” Uh… Excuse me?! So far, the explanations made sense – we’re all for safety! – but as far as we are concerned, there’s no way we’re paying anything more. We paid our due to the Kana Travel agency, and the price very explicitly included the transportation from Cusco all the way to Hidroelectrica. We understand that our agency subcontracted the transportation to another company, which is all good and well, but this means both agencies will just have to figure it out among themselves.
The man who’s in charge of organizing the transbordo (who will also be the second driver) sees that we’re stubborn, so he starts walking us across the river and into the second minivan – but as soon as we’re seated, he insists even more:
“Come on guys, we’re wasting time. Nobody wants to be late to Hidroelectrica. Pay your 10 soles a pop and let’s go!
— No way! Talk to our agency – the price we’ve paid to them is already high enough, and it includes transportation all the way.
— Well it’s okay guys, I’ve talked to José Luis already, and he will reimburse your 20 soles as soon as you’re back in Cusco.
— José Luis? We’ve never heard that name and we don’t know that person! If you know him, then he can pay you himself. The only contact persons we have are Raùl et Deivis.”
(All this in Spanish, of course… 🙂 )
We pull out our receipt from the agency and show the driver the two corresponding phone numbers. Raùl doesn’t pick up, but Deivis answers the phone. The guy steps aside to have his conversation. A few minutes later… he closes the door of the minivan and starts the engine! Victory!
Do you guys think we were out of the woods at that point? We thought so, too! However, the next day, we realized that we cried victory a little too soon…
After a beautiful day at Machu Picchu, we walk back down to Hidroelectrica, where we arrive around 2 pm and where we encounter yesterday’s minivan and driver. The man obviously recognizes us, and welcomes us with a smile. “I talked to your agency again. Today, you will effectively need to pay the transshipment. Yesterday, your agency accepted to bear the extra costs, but today, you’ll have to pay. They don’t cover the extra on the way back.”
To be honest, the guy is quite sympathetic, and he talks to us in a very nice way. That won’t change our view of the matter, though! We suspect that he’s bluffing, and insist that he calls Deivis again… He does, and hands me the phone: “Elvis (sic) would like to talk to you.”
Thus starts a 10-15 minutes phone conversation between Deivis and me, entirely in Spanish. Deivis does try to explain to me that his agency cannot be held accountable for the bad weather and the destruction of the bridge, and that we therefore need to pay the extra cost ourselves. I, however, remain camped on our initial position. We paid for round-trip transportation, and since the transbordo is not optional, its extra cost [which by the way doesn’t make any sense, as the wooden bridge was certainly not constructed by the transportation company…] cannot be charged to us. Moreover, Deivis or Raúl never mentioned this possible extra when we bought the trip from them a few days earlier – even though the bridge has been broken for a month (so there’s hardly any “force majeure” involved here).
I have the last word with something like this: “Your company is responsible for getting us back to Cusco. If we refuse to pay the extra, and the driver refuses to take us with him, what happens? We stay in Hidroelectrica? What about your responsibility then?” At those words, Deivis asks me to talk to the driver again. To clearly show how determined we are, we take our seats in the minivan – which is slowly filling up with other tourists headed back to Cusco.
A few minutes later, the driver comes back to the van and – talking to the whole group – rehashes yesterday’s speech (“broken bridge, transshipment, safety, 10 soles extra, etc.“) Looking at us, he adds: “You guys are good, your agency will cover the costs.”
Bingo! Now we’ve made it all the way! We’re pretty proud of ourselves, especially considering we handled the whole situation in the local idiom. Our confidence is now fully charged. Up to the next challenge! 🙂
10 – Exclusive Free Walking Tour of Barranco
After Cusco, we fly to Lima – where we arrive on January 31. We will stay there for 5 nights, in the appartement of “José”, the Peruvian dad of our Belgian friend Nadia, in the Barranco neighborhood. Since our host isn’t there yet when we arrive, a friend of his gives us access to his flat.
The next morning, we start our exploration of the neighborhood. With the help of Google, we find a small business – Arepa’s – that is pretty close, and which is supposed to serve good breakfast. The owner welcomes us in. His name is Mike, he comes from Miami (but has Venezuelan parents) and has lived in Lima for 7 years.
Since we’re the only clients at that moment of the day, and considering we speak decent English ( 🙂 ), Mike takes some time to talk to us about Lima and its Barranco and Miraflores neighborhoods. He draws up a small map to help us navigate the area, tells us about things to see and to do… When we tell him that we’re looking to eat some good “ceviche”, he turns into a guide: “I know the exact place you’re looking for, but it’s pretty tricky for me to explain to you how to get there – follow me, I’ll show you!”
So there we are, walking alongside Mike in the Barranco neighborhood! He shows us old villas dating back to the beginning of last century, takes us inside some old buildings to give us a better understanding of their architecture (“if the door is open, it means you can get in – if somebody says something, just play innocent”), gets us to the beautiful seafront… “The average wage in Peru is 900 soles a month, while renting one of these apartments will cost you a monthly… 3.000$, or 10.000 soles! So it’s not just anybody who lives around here…”
Among other things, Barranco has a lot of beautiful (legal) street art. We really like the atmosphere of the neighborhood! Eventually, Mike takes us to a small mercado, where the “ceviche” place he talked about (La Canta Ranita) is located. (We promise ourselves to come back later and try it.)
Then it’s time to part ways. We exchange phone numbers, just in case. We figure it would be nice to meet up again later our with our improvised guide, to offer him a beer and thank him again for his time. As it turned out, we couldn’t make that work – despite one almost fruitful attempt… But the intention was sincere! O:-)
Needless to say, this first introduction to Lima seemed like a pretty good omen for the rest of our stay in the Peruvian capital! And indeed, this first, excellent impression was confirmed in the following days – once we met our excellent host José… Story to be followed? 🙂
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[If you’re a native speaker of English, and you think we’ve used your language improperly (spelling mistake, incorrect grammar, unidiomatic expression…), please contact us to let us know! 🙂 🙂 🙂 ]
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